
The Baker That Should Have
Read the Room.
(Or at Least Read TikTok)
by Henrik Klijn
A James Beard Award-winning baker opened a shop in Mexico City, went on a podcast, and called Mexican bread "ugly." What happened next is a masterclass in what not to do when entering a new market.

I get it. Richard Hart’s the real deal. Won a James Beard Award. Worked at Tartine. Co-founded a bakery with the Noma guy. He makes beautiful bread that probably tastes like clouds blessed by doughy angels. So far, so amazing.
​
But then he opened a bakery in Mexico City, started charging 165 pesos for a loaf in a city where bolillos run about 15 pesos and have fed families for generations, and decided, on a podcast, recorded for posterity, to call Mexican bread "ugly" and claim Mexico "doesn't really have much of a bread culture."
​
Buddy. Buddy. What are we doing here?
​
It gets worse. On that same PopFoodie Radio podcast (recorded in April 2024, before his bakery even opened), Hart also casually mentioned bribing local officials: "We got closed down by the city, and we had to pay them some money. Everybody knows how it works in Mexico, you can pay your way out of things, and we did."
​
It’s a choice, I guess. Insult the culture AND brag about corruption in one interview. Nothing if not efficient.
The internet, predictably, lost its collective mind when this resurfaced last week. "Don't mess with the bolillo" trended on X. TikTok went ballistic. Instagram launched a passionate defense of conchas. Pastry chef Tania Medina told The Guardian that Hart "wants to be the Christopher Columbus of bread." Another Mexican baker called it what it is: "When a lack of information is mixed with arrogance, it's usually called ignorance."
​
Hart scrambled to post an apology, admitting he "forgot to act like a guest." Comments: disabled.
Here's the question: How does someone smart enough to win culinary awards and run bakeries across multiple continents not understand the most basic rule of operating anywhere in 2026? The one where you don't publicly trash the culture you're literally trying to profit from?
​
Let me explain it like a pitch deck.
​
A How-To-Get-It-Right Case Study
First: Do the homework.
And I don't mean skimming a Wikipedia article between pastry batches. I mean, actually understanding that Mexico has over 600 varieties of bread, according to commentator Rodrigo Sierra. That the National Chamber of Baking reports more than 2,000 varieties of sweet breads and pastries across the country. That this industry employs over 530,000 people. That bolillos aren't just "white rolls." They're the basis of many working-class lunches, the vessel for tortas, the thing you eat after something scares you because that's tradition.
​
This is table stakes. You wouldn't launch a tech product without studying the competitive landscape. Why would anyone open a bakery in one of the world's great food cities without understanding the bread ecosystem they're entering?
​
Second: Also read the stakeholder map.
Hart thought his customers were wealthy expats and tourists who'd Instagram his sourdough and call it a day. Fine. But stakeholders include everyone with a phone and an opinion. Food writers. TikTok creators. Regular people who love their neighborhood panadería and don't appreciate some British guy calling their breakfast "ugly."
​
Social media has democratized reputation management. You don't get to insult 130 million people and assume the backlash stays contained to your target demo. That's not how any of this works anymore. Ask Bud Light.
​
Third: Context matters.
Mexico City is in the middle of a massive, ongoing conversation about gentrification. About digital nomads pricing locals out of their own neighborhoods. About foreign-owned businesses that cater to transplants, while people who were born there struggle with rent.
​
Hart's bakery, Green Rhino, which opened in Roma Norte in June 2025, offers items ranging from 50 pesos for a flavored concha to 75 pesos for an apple croissant to 165 pesos for a sourdough loaf. "Far above typical bakeries serving bolillos and pan dulce," as Mexico News Daily put it.
​
That's his business model? OK. Charge what the market will bear.
​
But then, dismissing local bread traditions as inferior while profiting from being there? Read. The. Room.
This is like opening a luxury condo in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood and then going on a podcast to explain how the local architecture is trash. Except Hart did it with bread, which in Mexico is basically a religion.
​
Fourth: Expertise isn’t a license to criticize.
Here's a lesson from tech that applies everywhere: being technically excellent doesn't mean you understand the market. You can write the best code in the world and still build a product nobody wants. You can make the best bread and still completely fail at cultural intelligence.
​
Hart's work at his Copenhagen bakery, Hart Bageri, inspired a storyline on FX's "The Bear." Great. But that's hardly a license to disrespect the food culture of the country he moved to.
​
Being good at your craft ≠ understanding anything else. Full stop.
​
Why It Matters Beyond One Baker's Very Bad Week
This whole fracas is about more than bread and hurt feelings. It illustrates how global business works now.
Thirty years ago, you could walk into a foreign market with capital and credentials, say something stupid, and the blowback would be slow but local. Maybe a newspaper article. Maybe some grumbling. You'd have time to regroup.
​
Now? You're one podcast episode away from becoming a case study in what not to do. Social media moves faster than PR teams can type. By the time an apology is crafted, millions have already formed their opinion about you and your business.
Hart's apology was pretty good. Direct. Took responsibility. Said he'd "listen more and speak less" and "demonstrate through actions—not words—the respect that Mexican culture deserves."
​
The thing is, though: in an age of screenshots and collective memory, apologies don't erase original blunders. They're damage control, not reset buttons.
​
And damage is real. Now, every person who walks into Green Rhino knows about this. Every food writer covering Mexico City has this in their mental file. Every potential partnership or expansion opportunity comes with this asterisk attached.
That's the cost of cultural arrogance in 2025/26. Mistakes don't remain local. They don't fade. They become part of your brand story whether you like it or not.
​
The Bigger Picture: Stop Acting Like Colonizers
What stands out? This wasn't an accident. It's a mindset thing.
Hart didn't trip and fall into dismissing Mexican bread culture. He believed it. He thought European baking traditions were superior and Mexican traditions were less than. Not "real" bread culture.
​
That worldview, that European expertise gives you permission to judge and dismiss non-European traditions, is exactly the colonial mindset that doesn't fly anymore. And thank Odin for that.
​
We're in a moment where local communities have tools to push back. Where cultural gatekeepers aren't just newspaper food critics but thousands with platforms and receipts. Where "I'm sorry" has to be backed up with sustained behavior change, not just a nice Instagram statement with comments turned off.
​
Companies and entrepreneurs winning in global markets right now aren't the ones with the most money or the best products. They show up with humility. They understand they're guests. And recognize that every culture has deep knowledge worth respecting, even if it looks different from what they learned in Copenhagen.
​
What Hart Should Have Done
It's not complicated:
​
Don't. Insult. Your. Host. Country's. Cultural. Traditions.
​
Especially when you're profiting from being there.
Especially when you're charging premium prices that many locals cannot afford.
And doubly especially when you're recording a podcast that will live on the internet forever.
​
Want to open a bakery in Mexico City? Yes please. Make excellent bread. Charge whatever the market will bear. But maybe—and I'm just spitballing here—don't go on a podcast and trash the bread traditions that have sustained Mexican families for centuries while also bragging about bribing officials?
​
Position yourself as someone excited to learn from Mexican baking while contributing your own techniques. Hire Mexican bakers. Credit their expertise. Understand that cultural exchange goes both ways.
Just a thought.
​
Bottom Line
By all reports, Hart's bread is delicious. His bakery may survive this. People forget, businesses move on, and the internet will find a fresh main character by next week.
​
But he's created a completely avoidable reputational problem that will follow him as long as he's in Mexico. And for what? So he could act superior about his craft on a podcast? So he could position European baking as a gold standard and everything else as inferior?
​
That's not business strategy. That's ego. And in global markets, ego is expensive.
The smartest thing Hart said in his apology was admitting he forgot to act like a guest. That's exactly right. When you're operating in someone else's country, you're a guest.
​
To every founder, executive, or creative thinking about global expansion: Learn from this. Hire people who understand the market you're entering. Do cultural homework. Check your assumptions at the border. And for the love of God, don't go on podcasts and insult the local culture.
​
It's nearly 2026. The internet is forever. Screenshots are receipts. And Mexico remembers.
​
​
​
Sources
Core Reporting:
-
Associated Press via ABC News – Hart quotes, “Don't mess with the bolillo” trending
-
Mexico News Daily – Green Rhino pricing, 600+ bread varieties, apology quotes, Tania Medina quote
-
mitú – Bribery quote, CANAINPA industry data (530,000 employees, 2,000+ varieties)
-
BELatina – Full apology text
-
L.A. Taco – Cultural context, bolillo traditions
-
Remezcla – Social media reaction
Background:
-
James Beard Foundation – 2025 Award confirmation
-
Penguin Random House – Hart bio, Tartine/Hart Bageri history
-
Culinaria Mexicana – Green Rhino opening (June 29, 2025)